The Triple Chamber Cave of Dhevana Kandu in Vaavu (Felidhe) Atoll: Beauty, Mystery, and Conservation in the Maldives

Illustrated map of Felidhe Atoll (Vaavu), featuring detailed island markings and a compass rose for navigational orientation, created by Major (Retired) Ahamed Naeem (Captain Naeem).

Dhevana Kandu, universally celebrated as Miyaru Kandu (“Shark Channel” in Dhivehi) and its narrower northern passage Bodu Miyaru Kanduolhi (Big Shark Channel), is one of the Maldives’ most iconic dive sites and a flagship Marine Protected Area (MPA). Situated in Vaavu Atoll (also known as Felidhe Atoll), just south of Alimathaa island, this dynamic channel system perfectly embodies the harmonious blend of extraordinary natural beauty, rich biodiversity, and proactive conservation that defines modern Maldivian marine management. Designated on 27 September 1995 under the Environmental Protection and Preservation Act (Law No. 4/93) as one of the country’s first 15 MPAs, it remains a no-take zone that protects both marine life and the sustainable tourism economy.

Geographical and Topographical Splendor

Dhevana Kandu lies at the northern edge of Vaavu Atoll, forming a vital passage between the open Indian Ocean and the atoll lagoon. The main channel, positioned between Vihamaafaru Falhu and Kudadhiggaru Falhu, is split midway by a central reef approximately 250 meters long. This creates two distinct passages: the wider southern Miyaru Kandu and the narrower northern Bodu Miyaru Kandu. These eventually merge into a broad channel up to 500 meters wide and roughly one kilometer long.

Detailed map of Vaavu (Felidhe) Atoll showcasing major dive sites like Dhevana Kandu, Miyaru Kandu, and Bodu Miyaru Kanduolhi, with navigational details and dive points marked, created by Captain Naeem.

The topography is dramatic and diver-friendly in the recreational zone. Steep outer walls plunge sharply from around 30 meters into deep blue water. Numerous small caves, overhangs, gutters, and swim-throughs punctuate both sides of the channel. A majestic cave on the north corner at approximately 33 meters is a favorite for observing grey reef sharks. In the southern passage, large coral-encrusted rocks dominate, one rising an impressive nine meters from the seabed and covered in vibrant soft corals. The central northern passage features a long, narrow reef that slopes gradually from a sandy bottom at 15–18 meters. The channel floor itself, at around 15 meters in places, is blanketed with healthy coral.

The entire 1,383-hectare (13.83 km²) area, including adjacent reefs and drop-offs, enjoys full protected status. Strong tidal currents (often 1–4 knots) make it a classic drift dive. Incoming currents deliver the clearest water (visibility up to 30 meters) and the most exhilarating pelagic action, while outgoing currents can reduce visibility but still provide thrilling encounters.

Marine Biodiversity: The Heart of “Shark Channel”

The name Miyaru Kandu is no exaggeration. Strong currents turn the channel into a nutrient-rich conveyor belt, attracting abundant marine life year-round. Grey reef sharks frequently patrol in impressive numbers, often schooling near the entrances. Whitetip and blacktip reef sharks are common inside the channel, while deeper outer walls occasionally host hammerheads or sailfish. Eagle rays, barracuda, tuna, Napoleon wrasse, trevally, and massive schools of fusiliers and triggerfish add to the pelagic spectacle, especially during the northeast monsoon (December–April)

Reef life is equally vibrant. Soft and hard corals thrive on the walls and large rocks. Blue-face angelfish, saddled pufferfish, variegated lizardfish, butterflyfish, parrotfish, morays, and groupers populate the caves and overhangs. The site’s protected status since 1995 has been instrumental in maintaining this abundance, allowing shark populations to recover from earlier fishing pressures.

Diving here is primarily a drift experience, best suited for novices in mild conditions but recommended as advanced due to currents. Excellent buoyancy control is essential to avoid damaging the pristine coral formations. Depths typically range from 5–30 meters for recreational profiles, with deeper explorations possible on the outer walls.

Historical Context and the 1995 Protection Milestone

Maldivian atoll channels have served as vital fishing and navigation routes for centuries, with local fishermen long aware of the shark-rich waters of Dhevana Kandu. However, the modern conservation story began in the 1980s–1990s as scuba diving tourism exploded. Traditional shark fisheries (for meat, fins, and liver oil) increasingly clashed with the emerging eco-tourism economy. A single live grey reef shark could generate far more revenue through repeated diver visits than through one-time capture.

On 27 September 1995 (around World Environment Day), the Maldivian government took a landmark step by designating 15 Marine Protected Areas, primarily popular dive sites. Dhevana Kandu / Miyaru Kandu was among them. These early MPAs targeted reefs, thilas, and channels in central atolls (especially Kaafu and nearby) to curb anchoring damage, overfishing, and diver impacts. Complementary measures included banning the export of key baitfish for the aquarium trade, prohibiting fishing on resort house reefs, and protecting threatened species such as sharks, sea turtles, giant clams, and black coral.

In 1999, ten additional sites were added, expanding the network. This pioneering framework laid the foundation for today’s larger MPA system, including biosphere reserves like Baa Atoll. The 2010 nationwide shark fishing ban built directly on this momentum. Dhevana Kandu’s early protection proved highly effective: shark numbers rebounded, coral health remained robust, and the site solidified its status as a world-class dive destination.

Tragedy in the Depths: The May 2026 Cave Diving Incident

While the main recreational areas of Dhevana Kandu (5–30 meters) are relatively accessible and safe with proper guidance, deeper features on the outer walls harbor significant risks. On 14 May 2026, five experienced Italian divers , including marine ecologist Professor Monica Montefalcone, her daughter Giorgia Sommacal, and other researchers , perished in a deep cave system within the Devana Kandu / Vaavu Atoll area near Alimathaa. The group, diving from the liveaboard Duke of York, entered a complex cave network at depths of approximately 50–60 meters (well beyond recreational limits of 30–40 meters), which extends hundreds of meters through narrow passages and chambers.

The incident, the deadliest single diving accident in Maldivian history, highlighted the dangers of overhead environments and technical cave diving. One body was recovered near the entrance; the others were found deeper inside after challenging recovery operations involving Maldivian authorities and international experts. Tragically, a Maldivian military diver also lost his life to decompression illness during the effort. Investigations continue into factors such as equipment, currents, nitrogen narcosis, or navigation challenges in the restricted passages.

This tragedy serves as a somber reminder: while Dhevana Kandu offers unforgettable recreational diving in its protected shallows and mid-depths, deeper cave systems demand advanced technical training, proper equipment, and strict adherence to limits. The main channel’s caves at 33 meters remain accessible to experienced divers, but anything deeper requires specialized cave certification.

Broader Importance and Lasting Legacy

Dhevana Kandu showcases the Maldives’ unique atoll geography, where channels function as natural marine highways. Its protection supports local economies on islands like Fulidhoo, where dive tourism provides sustainable livelihoods. For global visitors, it delivers not only adrenaline but a profound sense of connection to the ocean.

Challenges persist: strong currents require meticulous planning, climate change threatens coral bleaching, and plastic pollution demands vigilance. Yet the 1995 designation stands as a model of balancing conservation with development. More than three decades later, “Big Shark Channel” continues to thrill divers with schools of grey reef sharks gliding through sunlit waters, vibrant coral gardens, and the timeless pulse of the Indian Ocean.

Whether drifting on an incoming current past eagle rays and Napoleon wrasse or marveling at soft corals draping massive rocks, a dive at Miyaru Kandu is an unforgettable testament to the beauty, fragility, and resilience of our oceans , and to the foresight that has preserved it for generations to come.